Saturday, March 29, 2008

[From Monty] Update from Namche Bazar

This may be the last update for the next couple months. The Chinese situation is getting clarified, improving slightly, but not without onerous restrictions. We still have no permit. We’ve been granted a preliminary permit which allows our staff to enter BC, and we’ve been told we'll get the climbing permit – to be issued in the next few days.

The final briefing in Kathmandu is supposed to take place next week where the restrictions will be outlined in detail. There are preliminary restrictions already on the internet, which include:
  • We will be allowed up to C3 before May 1
  • No one allowed above BC May 1-10
  • No climbing at night
  • No video cameras, laptops or PDAs
  • Satphones will be severely restricted, as will individual emails.
  • All communication may be required to go thru the BC Liaison Officer, and therefore severely restricted.
Nepali troops are stationed at both BC and C2.

The summit permit may not be issued (to the entire team) until May 10; therefore in ANYONE on the team violates the terms, the entire team may be denied a summit permit. Right now across the room, Eric Simonson, Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker are drawing up a second agreement for us saying we agree to all the restrictions or... Well, they really have no choice - if one person messed it up for the entire team, well, they'd be safer OUT of base camp!

We may have to surrender the laptop and satphone until May 10 to ensure complete team compliance with the restrictions. Calling home from permitted phones will likely be allowed, but supposedly under the restriction of the Liaison Officer (we do not have a permit for our phone; only IMG does). How this may work is still unclear, but we hope to place phone calls and give updates. So once we leave Namche there will be no more internet cafes and therefore no email access. Stay tuned.
We've been able to get our satphone connected, but still not as a modem. For better or worse, this may be a moot point.

In the meantime, I've met Pasang Rinji, my personal Sherpa and he seems really nice. The plan from here is to rest in Namche for two days, then continue to BC. Once there, some of us will depart for Lobuche. The one bit of good news is that yesterday my bags finally arrived, so I now have trivial items like a warm jacket and sleeping bag (I was borrowing). We've split our gear into one bag that has been sent straight to BC and another that travels with us each day.
In other good news I'm in good health, and there seems to be minimal bugs going around the team, but a few just appearing. I'm playing with things like wearing a bandanna over my mouth/nose on the trail, and a dustmask at night to keep cleaner, moister air in my lungs. I'm doing whatever I can to avoid the dreaded Khumbu Cough.

More as we get the opportunity.

Monty

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