[From Monty] A Setback is Introduced

(sorry, no pics this time – pictures are incredibly difficult and expensive to send; maybe Val and I will choose a few choice snaps for the next update)

It’s disappointing, but it looks like my chances for the summit may come down to how well my body (lungs) react to a new drug I'm trying.

I may have mentioned in an earlier post about some asthma issues that were occurring. I've always had a trivial touch of exercise-induced asthma, but my asthma here is debilitating. The cold, dry air irritates my lungs, which react by protecting themselves with a wonderful layer of phlegm as well as constricting the passages. So after a climb, I'm coughing up a lung trying to clear the phlegm, eventually causing my throat to start bleeding, while getting horribly winded just walking to the dining tent. Climbing then becomes out of the question.

A few weeks ago I got an asthma inhaler (bronchial dilator) from the base camp medical tent, but they told me it wouldn’t work indefinitely. They had a second inhaler with steroids that help reduce the irritation (and hence reduce the phlegm and constriction). This is the last stop for asthma sufferers, and became an issue on the last acclimatization rotation, to C3.

A few days ago we climbed BC-C2 in one day, skipping C1. I felt GREAT. The icefall was fun, and I even got some ice climbing in while bypassing a traffic jam on the ladders and doing some vertical ice up the rappel line. We reached C1, took a rest, then started up the Cwm to C2 in the midday heat.

WOW was it hot. My watch thermometer read 99degF. But I was climbing strong and passing people all the way to C2.

But stupid me; I wasn’t wearing anything over my mouth, like a buff or bandanna, that helps warm and moisten the incoming air. So once I reached C2, my lungs revolted. I spent the rest of the day as well as the next day hacking and wheezing. The following day’s attempt to reach C3 up the Lhotse Face was short-lived; I aborted and decided to retreat to BC, while Val continued up the Face.

The return to BC was living hell. I was chronically short of breath, and any slight uphill required 2-3 breaths per step. Pasang Rinji, my Sherpa, was extremely helpful, unloading my pack, and helping me in every way he could. By mid-afternoon I finally reached Base, but it was one of those near-rescue situations where they’re all in radio contact monitoring my progress, ready to send food and drink (or manpower) into the Icefall to assist my retreat.

I quickly visited the Base Camp medical tent. The good news is nothing’s ‘wrong’ – this is all just a normal asthmatic reaction to the cold, dry air. The inhaler with steroids works for some people, is ineffective for others. I'll know in a few days how the steroids work for me. Until then I need to spend all hours (day and night) with a buff over my mouth, and should expect to wear it while climbing, too. Sure, I'd been wearing one since we started the trek, but not religiously. I now must be far more diligent, protecting my lungs from any irritation, and hoping the steroids deal with whatever irritation is left. If that doesn’t work, I don’t summit.

This isn’t unusual; many others in our camp have similar ailments; one team member has similar asthma, but many people have some sort of respiratory affliction.

Onto other things…

The weather has taken a nasty turn, especially up high. There’s lots of fresh snow at C3, which is hampering the building of C4 (at the S Col). We get daily detailed weather reports that indicate the jet stream is far from the summit, but that the monsoon may be hitting early this year. The Chinese restrictions have delayed the building of the high camps as well as laying lines to the summit. As of right now it’s predicted the mountain prep may be completed by May 20^th – very late in the season to begin summit attempts. But if the monsoon hits early… well I'd rather not think about that.

So all WE can do is get ourselves ready and take advantage of the summit window that appears.

It’s interesting all the different approaches to summiting. I thought it was pretty standard that you had three rotations, successively sleeping at C1,2,3. But different people take very different approaches. Some are just getting as high on the Lhotse Face toward C3 as they can, then retreating, while others aren’t even attempting to climb above C2. One of our groups is currently down the valley, resting at a lower altitude, after only one stay at C2.

I'm very happy that Val and I seem to have acclimatized well to C2 at 21,000ft. On the last rotation there were no headaches, no nausea, or other symptoms of altitude sickness. Physically, mentally, acclimatization-wise – I think Val and I are ready. Nothing but the weather’s going to stop Val, and I've got serious respiratory care to tend to. I’m expecting 6-7 days rest here at BC before attempting the summit – I'll try to send out a short note before heading up describing our plans and strategies for summiting.

Monty