[From Val] The sweet in the sweet milk tea

There are times, finally, when there is nothing that needs to be done. When the bags have been repacked in Kathmandu. When flights over a hazy terrai into a perched Lukla have been taken. When feet have trekked through Phakding to Namche. When the hot lemon or hot Tang have been drunk. And when nature's calls have been satisfied. Then it is time to sit against a rock, not an ordinary one, but a mani rock with mantras carved into the stone, with bright blue paint to accent them. Then it is time to listen to the Dudh Kosi rushing the melted glaciers to the sea. Then it is time to gaze upward at immense rock and glaciers above. It may even be time to do some yoga to relax the body and breathe.

 

This morning started with views of Everest, a great plume of clouds to the east. We are in Namche, approximately 11,300 ft. Feeling good, today we climbed a fun ridge above Namche, exposing our bodies to the thinner air of 2,000 fewer feet. The ridge offerred us a chance to breathe a little more quickly, and some great views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Descending into Kunde, we were able to visit a hospital, and the Hillary school in Khumjung on the way back. We even managed to see a yeti skull; somehow coconuts have a strikingly similar appearance. 

 

What is great about this trip, this trek, this climb, is getting to the space where you appreciate the hot in the hot shower, the clean in the clean socks, the salt in the salty popcorn, the deep in the deep breath.

 

As you have seen from Monty's last post, we are going to be under quite a few additional restrictions from April 1 through May 10, and our communications will be limited. The good news is that we'll be able to go up to Camp 3 prior to May 1, which will be great for our acclimatization. For now, our plan is to head up to Base Camp over the next week or so, then Monty and I will go climb Lobuche (~20,000 ft) to acclimatize prior to going through the icefall for the first time. Then we'll be up and down Everest (up to Camp 3) getting ready. Things are going well, Monty and I are both healthy, and our IMG team members are all good and strong teammates that we're looking forward to getting to know better over the next two months.

 

-Val

 

 

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[From Monty] Update from Namche Bazar

This may be the last update for the next couple months. The Chinese situation is getting clarified, improving slightly, but not without onerous restrictions. We still have no permit. We’ve been granted a preliminary permit which allows our staff to enter BC, and we’ve been told we'll get the climbing permit – to be issued in the next few days.

The final briefing in Kathmandu is supposed to take place next week where the restrictions will be outlined in detail. There are preliminary restrictions already on the internet, which include:

• We will be allowed up to C3 before May 1
• No one allowed above BC May 1-10
• No climbing at night
• No video cameras, laptops or PDAs
• Satphones will be severely restricted, as will individual emails.
• All communication may be required to go thru the BC Liaison Officer, and therefore severely restricted.

Nepali troops are stationed at both BC and C2.

The summit permit may not be issued (to the entire team) until May 10; therefore in ANYONE on the team violates the terms, the entire team may be denied a summit permit. Right now across the room, Eric Simonson, Ang Jangbu and Mark Tucker are drawing up a second agreement for us saying we agree to all the restrictions or... Well, they really have no choice - if one person messed it up for the entire team, well, they'd be safer OUT of base camp!

We may have to surrender the laptop and satphone until May 10 to ensure complete team compliance with the restrictions. Calling home from permitted phones will likely be allowed, but supposedly under the restriction of the Liaison Officer (we do not have a permit for our phone; only IMG does). How this may work is still unclear, but we hope to place phone calls and give updates. So once we leave Namche there will be no more internet cafes and therefore no email access. Stay tuned.
We've been able to get our satphone connected, but still not as a modem. For better or worse, this may be a moot point.

In the meantime, I've met Pasang Rinji, my personal Sherpa and he seems really nice. The plan from here is to rest in Namche for two days, then continue to BC. Once there, some of us will depart for Lobuche. The one bit of good news is that yesterday my bags finally arrived, so I now have trivial items like a warm jacket and sleeping bag (I was borrowing). We've split our gear into one bag that has been sent straight to BC and another that travels with us each day.
In other good news I'm in good health, and there seems to be minimal bugs going around the team, but a few just appearing. I'm playing with things like wearing a bandanna over my mouth/nose on the trail, and a dustmask at night to keep cleaner, moister air in my lungs. I'm doing whatever I can to avoid the dreaded Khumbu Cough.

More as we get the opportunity.

Monty

[From Monty] Dean Smith Sends His Greetings

We're in Kathmandu, departing for Lukla 5am tomorrow.  Latest word is that my bags should chase us up the route and catch up in two days.

 

What happened will some day, I'm sure, be humorous, but just not quite yet.  There's another climber on the trip named Dean Smith; I'm Monty Dean Smith (or Montgomery Dean Francis Smith to be precise).

 

While checking in in LA, Thai Airlines couldn't find the reservation, but soon enough found it. 

But boarding the plane, two of us had the same seat assignment – Dean Smith and me.  Seems they pulled up his info and gave me his boarding pass, and him an identical one.  So according to Thai, Monty Smith never boarded the plane, and his bags were never sent on.  The irony here is that Thai has assured me this cannot happen – the system will not issue two boarding passes.

 

More snafu on the Bangkok-Kathmandu leg, where they forced me to buy a second ticket while keeping the entire plane waiting.  So here I am in Kathmandu, and they say my bags should arrive tomorrow, but after we've started the trek to base camp.  The plan is – one of the staff get the bags, bring them on his flight to Lukla, and then hustle them atop a porter to Namche, reaching me in only two more days.  By then I *may* be ready for fresh socks and underwear; but I'll have to wait and see how I feel or whether I've become too attached to these (or whether they're too attached to me).

 

So Kathmandu is every bit as endearing as always.  Noisy, crowded, and just a nice place to say goodbye to.  I had a perfectly wonderful day waiting for hours at the Thai Airlines office, followed by shopping for a few last minute items.  But at least I did find a like-new $1000 Mtn Hardwear one-piece down suit for only $220.  I have a down parka and pants, but the suit does work better at keeping the wind out.

 

Tomorrow we fly to Lukla and start the eleven-day trek to BC.  We'll take a rest days at Namche Bazaar, where I'm hoping my luggage catches up.  In the meantime I'm borrowing hiking shoes (I'm presently wearing Crocs) and schlepping extra stuff in Val's bag.

 

So let's see – other than that, the handle on the laptop carrier/briefcase broke on day one, and the satphone won't connect in Kathmandu no way no how.  Small details, but all just adding to the frustration.  Val's been kind while I vented; 'nuff said.

 

Tonight was a full-team welcome dinner at a nice bar in Kathmandu; some 30-40 people including trekkers, guides, and additional guided parties signed onto IMG's permit/logistics.  That doesn't include the staff, of whom we'll meet in Lukla.  Seems like a great bunch of folks; clearly some climbers, some adventure-seekers.

 

- Monty

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[From Val] ... but the yak is waitig...

As if it wasn't already stressful to arrange leaving your life for two and a half months. As if there hadn't been enough things on the list to cross off before leaving the front door. As if you hadn't stayed up till 4am packing, ftting in good friends between rescue insurance, automatic bill-pay, and having the kitties well cared for. It was as if the airline scheduler didn't know that the yak was waiting for your duffel bags five days from now.

 

Didn't know that one thing leads to the next, and that change at the beginning of things has the most impact. That grande flights lead to venti flights lead to new countries and dinners and teammates and tall flights into the high Himalaya where the yaks are waiting, even now. As if canceling your fligt and rescheduling for the next day were okay. But imagination and creative problem solving aren't part of the job description.

 

Some things get crossed off the list because they are complete. Some things get 'X'-ed off because there is no time left for them. The item 'relax', while the realization started so nicely on the back deck, snow melting, sun shining, and loved ones and tea waiting, the item would be quickly X-ed off, as implications that the flight was canceled set in. In the end, an extra stop in San Francisco on the way to LA solved the problem.  And my duffels even made the plan (at least the first one).

 

Now the reality of the next few months begins to set in. It will be life at a slower pace, where if sleep for 10 hours a night is what you want, it will be what you get. It will be learning new Nepali songs, walking on familiar paths down low and unknown ones up high. There will be challenges at many levels: physical, psychological, political, emotional. As with the flight, through problem solving, excitement, looking at things anew, and a little extra help, the journey is sure to lead to a good place.

 

-Val

 

 

 

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Political News, Additional FAQs and Our Staff

We continue to be overwhelmed by the well-wishes, support, and offers for help from all of you. Even at this early point, you have no idea how much that helps. Each of you will be with us all the way to the summit, drawing upon your energy and emotional support when things get rough. Thank you.

Here's some additional general information about the climb, a few more FAQs, staff bios, plus at the end is info on how you can sign up for climb updates directly from IMG.

[To Chuck and me these posts appear to be coming thru just fine. But if you're experiencing difficulty, please let Chuck know and he'll devote his life savings and personal happiness to get you right. Call now, operators are waiting.]

Political News:
Most of you have heard the news of uprisings in Tibet, and many have also heard about the Chinese closing parts of the mountain.

Two events occurred simultaneously on Mar 10. That is the anniversary date of the Tibetan uprising in 1959 (when the Dalai Lama fled to India). Monks and students began protesting in Lhasa, Tibet, of which the ensuing crackdown has brought up to eighty deaths by troops and police (the protestors' figures) or ten deaths caused by protestors (the Chinese figures). It seems there were also protests in New Delhi, India; Sydney, Australia and NYC at the UN HQ. The Chinese are blaming the coordinated(?) efforts on the Dalai Lama.

Coincidentally on the same day, China closed Everest from the north; the Tibet side.

Backstory: in preparation for the Beijing Olympics, China plans on taking the torch to the summit. Last April, five protesters were arrested at Tibet base camp protesting to 'Free Tibet' during a practice torch climb. Despite months of stating otherwise, on Mar 10, China appears to have suddenly revoked permits to N side teams until the torch has passed (no access to BC until May 10). This comes about a week before hundreds of climbers were due to depart.

China also requested that Nepal close the S side, apparently to eliminate the possibility of "Free Tibet" protesters being on the summit while the torch is there. Nepal rejected that request, until on Mar 13 Nepal agreed to close the entire S Side from May 1-10; we're told all climbers will be required to retreat to BC. There are rumors that China assisted in convincing Nepal by means of a $120M contribution.

This is of course causing great concern. Our outfitter has stated this shouldn't affect us as we'd not be on our summit push until after that, but there are many concerns:

1. Acclimatization must be completed, and climbers off the mountain, by May 1. This will obviously affect acclimatization plans.
2. Many N Side teams may try to change plans to the S, making it more crowded.
3. Come May 11 there'll be a stampede for the summit.
4. May 1-10 is a very early summit date; what if the Chinese don't summit due to weather? Will they require the S Side remain closed longer, and Nepal capitulates? This type delay could eliminate options on the S Side. And of course all this is changing daily, with Nepal being quite silent, and China characteristically denying everything.

Many of you asked why we chose the S side, and my response was that after Shishapangma, we'd prefer to not have to deal with the Chinese government. And with current goings-on, we think we made the right choice. But the spillover into Nepal wasn't anticipated and is currently great cause for concern.

Connectivity on the mountain
We are taking a laptop, satphone and solar panel. Much thanks to David Christopher for the use of the Thuraya satphone! IMG has a high-speed Inmarsat data terminal (think satellite DSL) that we can use for a fee. They also have additional solar power that we can use; but their laptop is not for general use. So between the satphone and IMG's data terminal we should be able to send both blog updates and some photos from BC. You will have the ability to email us on the mountain – forward to our blogmaster at chuck@chuckaude.com and he'll forward to us.

Classroom Visit
Last week I had the opportunity to visit The International School in downtown Portland, thru some friends, Dave and Linda (their sons go there). I entered in full summit regalia, and spent about 45min talking with the class about the climb. Photos above.

Additional FAQs:

Have you read the new book "High Crimes" by Michael Kodas?
There's a new book about Everest that is mostly about the people and not the climb. Kodas really made some enemies on the mountain, and this seems his way of getting even. He tries to make it an expose of the dire goings-on, but "methinks thou dost protest too much". Not recommended.

Why Everest?
There's been an unsurprising but huge reaction to "I'm climbing Mt Everest" – it's the 'big one' people think of, but among the climbing cognoscenti, the S Col route or N Ridge are mere tickboxes in one's climbing career. It's an overcrowded, overrated mountain, and of all the big peaks I've done, it's the one I'm looking forward to the least. I imagine in three months I will be very disillusioned with the climbing community.

I've been asked "So why Everest? I thought you didn't want to do Everest." Well, I didn't. I'm actually looking forward to Cho Oyo, Broad Peak or Gasherbrum II in future years – all Himalayan 8000'ers, but with far less people. Val wanted to do Everest and turned down Cho Oyo. Well, she wanted to do the West Ridge (yikes!) so we compromised on the more sedate SE Ridge; the S Col route; the dog route. I feel I'm in good hands climbing with Val, and the chance for a great adventure together surpasses the desire to do this peak vs that one.

What about high altitude retinopathy – didn't that affect you on Shishapangma? Will it be an issue on Everest?
Retinopathy is when the blood vessels in your eyeball burst. My father had diabetic retinopathy that effectively blinded him for weeks at a time, as his normally-clear ocular fluid became filled with opaque blood, taking weeks to cleanse itself. I had a tiny spot of high-altitude retinopathy on Shishapangma; there was a tiny blood clot right on my optic nerve, and showed up as a red spot when I'd look at a light, fading a few weeks after returning home.

This is a very little-understood ailment, and there is no research indicating whether it occurs due to lower oxygen level in your blood (an oxygen mask would reduce the likelihood), or lower partial pressure of oxygen in the ambient air (an oxygen mask won't help at all). So there is some risk of retinopathy, and possibly even more than what I experienced on Shishapangma. The likelihood of this should be determined by our acclimatization climbs, and if it's too bad, then I forego the summit. But the likelihood that it'll occur bad enough to block usable vision is remote, and the likelihood of both eyes getting it is more remote. So it's a risk, but in my opinion an unlikely one, and I'm approaching the risk with both eyes open (ba-da-bump!).

Are you using oxygen?
Yes. Uh, let me restate that. YOU BET YOUR A** WE'RE USING OXYGEN!! Not using oxygen is the current macho 'no-cheating-allowed' trend in climbing big peaks, and it just raises the risk that much more. I mourn the loss of those brain cells during my college years, so it's all the more important I hold onto the few left. Yes to oxygen.

And now the specifics for the techno-lovers, taken from IMG's website:
http://www.mountainguides.com/oxygen-systems.shtml

IMG's oxygen system holds 1800 liters of O2, each supplying 10-30 hours at lo-hi flow rates. IMG will supply us four bottles. Climbers sleep on O2 at C3 and use the same bottle to get up to C4 the next day. They have a full bottle at C4 just for sleeping. The climb starts with a full bottle and is used to the Balcony, at which point it is exchanged (the remaining half bottle is left at the Balcony). The second full bottle should be enough to go from the Balcony to the Top and back to the Col.

If climbers are slow or if there is a problem, the half full bottle left at the Balcony is for backup.

This sounds very reasonable to me.

Our staff:
We will have a large staff on the mountain, but there are five VIPs that you'll be hearing more about.
Mark Tucker and Ang Jangbu Sherpa – IMG's expedition leaders; the Big Bosses
Ang Passang – Sirdar (head of the Sherpa climbing team)
Phunuru Sherpa – Val's Personal Sherpa
Passang Rinji - Monty's Personal Sherpa

http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south08.shtml has these bios, as well as pics and bios of the entire IMG client list and Sherpas.

Mark Tucker has been guiding since 1985, with Mt. Rainier as the starting point. Since then, he has climbed and guided classic peaks on seven continents, with the summit of Mt. Everest as his high point. Mark's extensive experience in South America, Africa and the Himalayas, combined with his lengthy career guiding n Rainier and Denali in the US, makes him a super member of our guide team. On September 29, 2006 Mark became a Seven Summiter when he led the IMG Mt. Carstensz expedition to the summit of that mountain. His first seven summit was Aconcagua in 1989 — it only took him 17 years! When not in the hills, he leads a fun-filled Other Life. Passions by land include mountain biking, skiing, snowboarding, motorcycle riding, and gardening (he's still working on the golf game.) By water, he enjoys surfing, kayaking, wind surfing, scuba diving, water skiing, and fishing, and by air, hang gliding.

Ang Jangbu is a partner and director of the premier trekking and climbing agency we use in Nepal. Jangbu grew up in the village of Phortse where he attended the Hillary school until the age of 18. In 1981 he moved to Pokhara and lived there for seven years and trained under the legendary Colonel Jimmy Roberts, the founder of Nepal's first trekking company and the trekking industry in the Nepal Himalaya. He then moved to Kathmandu and started a trekking and climbing agency with two other partners in the spring of 1993. Jangbu is married and has two children. He has been on dozens of expeditions, including summiting Everest on the 1990 American Everest Expedition. Jangbu has climbed Europe's Mt. Blanc and most of the 14,000-foot peaks in Colorado, and has served as assistant instructor for Colorado Outward Bound. Ang Jangbu has worked with Eric Simonson on every IMG Himalayan program since 1991 and is a very popular leader. He and his staff put together one of the very best Sherpa teams for IMG.

Ang Passang Sherpa (Sirdar)
42 years old, from Pangboche, 4 kids
Experience: Everest X 19 (4), Makalu X 1, Daulagiri (1), Cho Oyu X 9 (7), Ama Dablam X 3 (4), Nuptse X 1
Ang Passang has been working for IMG as a climbing sirdar since 1997.

Phunuru Sherpa (Val's Personal Sherpa)
26 years old, from Phortse, 1 daughter
Experience: Everest X 7 (3), Cho Oyu X 9 (7), Nirika (1), Lobuche East (1), Island Peak (2), Ama Dablam X 1, Attended Khumbu Climbing School three times (including first aid training), Attended week-long medical course in Khunde.

Passang Rinji Sherpa (Monty's Personal Sherpa)
30 years old, from Phortse, 2 kids
Experience: Everest (2), Makalu 1, Island Peak (12), Mera (3), Pharchamo (1), Pokalde (2), Namche Barwa 1. Attended Khumbu Climbing School (with first aid training)

Blog website: http://monty-val-everest.blogspot.com

To get updates on the climb directly from IMG:

Short instructions: go to
http://visitor.constantcontact.com/email.jsp?m=1101602842895

Step by step instructions:

1. go to www.mountainguides.com
   
2. choose "Contact Us" from menu bar
   
3. choose "Register for Newsletter" from drop down list under "Contact Us"
   
4. when the new screen asks for "Your email address", enter your email address and then click on "SUBMIT"
   
5. If this is a new email address that has never been registered with IMG before, then
   
1. on the next screen, retype your e-mail address in the place where it says "Retype Your e-mail address:"
   
2. Check the boxes for the newsletters you wish to receive
   
3. Enter the rest of the required information (First Name, Last Name, City, Zip)
   
4. Click on the "SUBMIT" button
   
6. If you are already registered with IMG using this email address, then
1. Re-enter your e-mail address where the screen says "Re-type your email address"
2. Click on the "SUBMIT" button
3. You will see a message that's says: "You will be receiving an email at yourname@xxxxxx.yyy shortly. This email will include a link to allow you to change lists and/or personal profile information."
4. Check your e-mail at the address you entered above. Click on the link in that e-mail that says "Update your profile"
5. Check the boxes for the newsletters you wish to receive
6. Update any personal information that needs to be updated.
7. Click on the "SUBMIT" button
7. You are now setup to receive the IMG updates!

This email is to introduce everyone to the blog and our ‘blogmaster’, and explain how to subscribe.

Thanks to Chuck Aude for taking on the task of being our stateside contact. He’ll be able to forward emails to us, fix unforeseen blog problems, etc. He (and thru him, we) can be reached at chuck@chuckaude.com.

The Blog

I have set up a blog at http://monty-val-everest.blogspot.com; it is live with the first post already up. I'll be (re-)posting the second entry in a couple days.

It works pretty well; we can send an email and it’s automagically posted to the blog, photos included. You can subscribe to the blog via email right on the site, and posts, including photos, will be forwarded directly to you. If you prefer an RSS feed, the subscribe link is http://feeds.feedburner.com/blogspot/PNfc.

On the blog page, just give it your email address, then there’s a ‘type the letters you see in the box’ check, and it’ll send you a confirmation email. Emails will be sent to you once a day, although it’s unlikely we'll ever do more than one entry in a day. We don't mind if you invite others to join the site; it’s all public. If you subscribe but don't ever get email, check your spam folder. You're welcome to leave comments on the site; there’s a comment link at the end of every entry.

Some of you know I tried doing this with yahoo, but most of you didn’t get the message, and those who did, had problems subscribing. So I've switched to feedburner.

Many of you know me, many know Val, and some of you may not care to read blog entries of someone you’ve never met. So we will preface our individual entries by our names, so you can choose to read mine, Val’s or both.

We've added some info on a non-profit that Val’s supporting – Room To Read. There’s a slideshow and a link to their website.

Profiles of Val and me have also been added.

IMG Blog

IMG, our outfitter, will also have a blog on their site http://www.mountainguides.com. This will give generic info on the team, such as ‘we’ve begun the acclimatization to Camp2’, but no info on, or from, any individual climber.

The Everest page is http://www.mountainguides.com/everest-south.shtml. This is chock full of info on the climb, including bios of our staff and the climbers.

Once they have their blog up I'll try to send the link out to people. If you want to be on their email list in addition to this one, please let me know and I'll have them add you.